Best handgun for the money

http://www.taurususa.com/products/product-details.cfm?id=39&category=Pistol

The MSRP is $436 but I guarantee you can get it for at least $100 less. I got mine 3 years ago for $280 new. Leaves you room for about $300 of ammo. It has a 3.25" barrell which makes it a little bulldog (like a mini-eagle), but it's more accurate and faster to fire than you might think. The safeties are good and it has a double stack mag (10rnds) which, for me, is a more comfortable plinker. And like I mentioned in another thread it will fit in your pocket (not the best place to put it, but mentioned to illustrate size).

The wife has a Taurus 9mm revolver and it's a smooth customer too.
http://www.taurususa.com/products/product-details.cfm?model=905I-SS1&category=Revolver

Sadly it's discontinued, but I'll wager you might find one out there, it's affordable ($100<PT145) and minus the whole half-moon clips its also a fun weapon to plink with. 9mm rounds as I'm sure has been mentioned are far lighter on the trust fund than .45 unless you are reloading.

No I am not a Taurus Tool, but I am a big fan. The best bang for the buck out there in my oppinion. Good compromise on ergonomics/overall quality/price.

I was in a large chain sporting goods store a couple of days ago(always over priced) they had used glock 23 for 439.99(looked brand new) fobus holsters 20-30 bucks extra magazines 30 bucks each(I like to have at least 6 mags for any gun I have and the 23 came with 2) and 250rd ct boxes of 40SW ammo for practice for i think 69 or 89 bucks 25 bucks for a 20rd box of good ammo you are only at like 694 I think it would be less than 750 with tax not bad! I like glocks they always work but they have there falts ,some people hate the grip angle, ugly , factory sights suck but that can be changed good luck.

OK - have been doing research/ handling different pieces and find myself leaning towards 1911 models. I like the slimness, the safety features, short trigger-pull. Dont like mag capacaties.
Question - How many out there carry 1911's locked and loaded? From a rookies standpoint this seems a bit risky.
Also, anyone have problems concealing the polymer frame pistols (Glock, Sig, SA)?
Thanks!!

Your worried about that you could get a Para LDA gun, they also have double stack mags which should deal with your mag capacity worry too.

all i carry daily is a 1911. mine is cocked and ready to roll. i have a level 2 serpa holster that covers the trigger guard so i roll with my safety disengaged most of the time. it allows me the same level of safety as an XD and a grip safety above a glock. if i use a holster without a side button i will leave the safety on. Given that if i have to use it i want to have as few things to press as possible, i deal with it that way. your mileage may vary.

dont let anyone fool you though, every striker fired pistol is carried cocked on an empty chamber, and few have safeties these days. the evil hammer is missing is all. i had a cop tell me a glock was safe-action not single action and thats why it was safer than a 1911. i simply asked him whether the trigger cocked the gun and fired it or merely released the firing mechanism. he couldnt tell me anything but the slide had to cycle to cock the gun. as far as function goes, thats single action to me.

carry what you feel is safe...

The best bang for your buck is the Glock-19. Not prefect but darn good.

The GLOCKs that PDs use are usually armorer fitted with heavier trigger pulls, thus making them less likely to fire inadvertently (if you believe that). But a 1911 carried cocked and with the safety disengaged... I don't know, that just sounds like an ND waiting to happen. But if you've done it already and it suits you, well I ain't complaining.

To be honest the thought of carrying a 1911 cocked and unlocked never really bothered me. The gun isn't going to go off until someone pulls the trigger, so just keep your finger off the trigger.

I guess that's ONE way around not having a 1911 fitted with ambi-safeties.

(Southpaw, so usually like 'em with an extra off switch on the starboard side.)

Glock 19. Comfortable to carry, rock solid reliable, accurate, just big enough to shoot all day, 15 round mags.

I will throw in my 2 cents, and with that comes my vote for Sig. As a side note, over in the for sale section, there is a fellow selling a P245 for $550.00, nib. I'd be all over it, but just bought a Platinum Elite in 40 S&W. Here's a link for that P245:

http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/350601935/m/5641057431

$700.00 is enough scratch to find (almost) any Sig, IMO, depending on where you look. I know you won't be disappointed if you try one...

Sorry, forgot to add, that link above is for an ad in the for sale section of the Sig forum...

Thanks for the link - will check it out...

Locally I have a friend urging me to check out a Kimber 1911 with laser-grip for $960. I think it is a Commander model, but havent made it to the gunshop yet.
Also found a SA XD45 for $470 - NIB with clip holder, case, loader, and belt holster.

Still shopping though...

The P220 Compact is a favorite of mine... so are Commander 1911's... The XD .45 is a but large but an outstanding handgun regardless. None of these are bad choices. All winners.

One thought, if cost is a big factor: it won't take long to spend 700 bucks on ammo at today's (retail) prices IF YOU PRACTICE REGULARLY, which you should do, if you plan on Carrying. At 15 bucks a box, 2 boxes a month, in a little over 2 years, there's your 700 bucks.

Steps to Take To mitigate ammo cost:

1)choose a common caliber- .38 spec, 9mm, .45 ACP, and avoid odd ones- .32 H&R Mag, .357 Sig, .45 GAP....

2)learn to handload, and choose a gun/cartridge platform that is easy to load for- .38 or .357 revolver, or a .45 ACP 1911, and avoid those that have "issues" with handloads - high pressure catridges like .40 S&W, guns that have funky octagonal rifling like Glocks .....

3) Buy PRACTICE ammo (or components, if you choose to "roll yer own") in bulk,

Of the guns mentioned above, I would recommend the SP101 in .357 Mag for a first carry gun- Inexpensive (NOT Cheap!),Tough, small, with power to spare (with premium Personal Defense Loads) and you can reload your own .38 Specials to practice with. You will have a couple hundred bucks left over to pay for such things as a Good Concealed Carry Class, a GOOD belt and Holster, a nifty handloading set-up, or a couple years worth of WIN White Box....

My first pistol was a 5" steel framed 1911a1 Clone. It only took me one hot summer to decide that it was just to heavy (particularly so when loaded, with a spare mag) and big to Carry in light summer clothes.

Glock, SIG, Browning, HK, various 1911's, XD, S&W, CZ, Kahr, Walther, Ruger....

For under $700, you can get just about any service pistol that will last the rest of your life.

9mm is just fine for defense with modern ammo.
40 S&W is just fine for defense with modern ammo.
45 ACP is just fine for defense with modern ammo.
10mm is just fine for defense with modern ammo.
357 Magnum is just fine for defense with modern ammo.
...and so on.

Handguns are wimpy and their terminal ballistics really aren't that good. When people say 45 over 9 because "it's bigger"...that's a massive simplification for an extremely complicated set of variables (one which scientists are still learning how to describe).

9mm (9x19, 357, 38)...10mm (40)...11mm (45)...it's just 2mm diameter difference. As alluded to before, it's the TYPE of damage that matters (combined with many other factors). So...it comes down to creating wounds in locations that will cause massive blood loss and/or shock to the central nervous system. Bullets cause different types of damage. Round nose will pass through by separating the flesh in such a way that it springs back. Flat points will crush a "tube" of flesh, causing rips and tears. Hollow points become big round nose, but I think they do some crushing damage too. Additionally, energy dumped will shock the surrounding tissue. Again, this is a gross simplification and I don't pretend to understand it all.

When people start talking about "one shot stops" and "foot pounds of energy delivered"...start thinking "MARKETING AND SALES!!" It's factually correct, but bunk in the way it's presented because it disregards most of the equation.

It's very simple to sidestep the entire issue by using burst fire. Don't shoot the goblin once! Hammer him as many times as you can in the shortest possible timespan. One guy told me he NEVER had a problem putting someone down with 9mm hardball because three to the upper chest and three to the head caused more damage than they could cope with! Kinda hard to argue with proper shot placement. In short, cause MULTIPLE wound channels to create multiple avenues of massive blood loss and multiple pathways of shock. Using this method, it really doesn't matter if you're using 44 Magnum or 22 Magnum...it's really a matter of training yourself to shoot fast and accurately.

Additionally, are you budgeting $700 for the gun? What about all the other stuff?

3 holsters (at least that many, especially for carry...ask anyone about their "Holster Box")
10 magazines or speed loaders
Gun belts (black, tan, other)
Magazine holders (single and double)
Mag loader for those long gun classes and range sessions
Safety gear (eyes, ears)
Spare parts
Manual(s)
Night sights (optional)

Wow - alot to think about.
First, the $700 figure was an average price. The Kimber I looked at (and extremely liked) was $960. The XD 45 was $460.
As for the extra stuff listed above, I plan to purchase that over time. Main idea first is the big purchase.
Being new to this aspect of firearms, I chose the .45 due TO the simplification that bigger is better, mostly because I am NOT trained or experienced to shoot fast and accurate. Does that make sense? I do plan to practice, as I do plan to carry. More importantly I want to feel "natural" in a worst case scenario. As mentioned before, I want to feel as though my firearm is an extension of my hand.
Your advice about using burst fire makes great sense to me. Of course reliable burst fire can only be achieved through practice.

Which leads me to a question...

The store salesman, in describing and detailing the Kimber 1911 I was looking at today, mentioned that there was a conversion kit to .22 long rifle. His point was that practice and initial training could be done with the same model and features for less money. I assume at a certain point, I would need to switch back to the .45 setup to finish/contiue training.

Does this sound like a good idea? Why or why not?

Thanks for the great info.

Kimber has a conversion but it is expensive. http://www.kimberamerica.com/shop/section.php?xSec=19

There is also the Ciener http://www.22lrconversions.com/ Cheaper but the magazines are more expensive.

Geoff
Who still has an original Colt conversion.